🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.